Cover securing

Securing Molly's Cover - Using two half hitches has been found to be ideal for this situation

Learn this one first
This column shows the basic "single" version used on the shortest lines.
(It is like tying a clove hitch, but doing it around a line rather than around a post or ring.)

Learn this one second
This column shows the version used on the longer lines.
This has two benefits; (i) you don't have to thread loads of single line when forming the knot, (ii) it leaves much less line dangling.

Securing Molly's Cover - Using two half hitches has been found to be ideal for this situation
Learn this one first This column shows the basic "single" version used on the shortest lines. (It is like tying a clove hitch, but doing it around a line rather than around a post or ring.)		Learn this one second This column shows the version used on the longer lines. This has two benefits; (i) you don't have to thread loads of single line when forming the knot, (ii) it leaves much less line dangling.
(1) Run the end of the line up through the eyelet. Now pull it down to the left as you take up the slack in the "standing line" under the hull. (The line which takes the load is known as the Standing Line)		This starts just like the basic version on the left. (1) Run the end of the line up through the eyelet. Now pull it down to the left as you take up the slack in the "standing line" under the hull. Form a closed "bight" (loop) in the line to create about 18 inches of doubled line which will be used to tie the knot.
(2) Bring the working end (ie, the free end, the bit you manipulate) around from left to right in front of the standing part, then begin to pass it from right to left behind the standing part (ie against the canvass).	(3) As you do so, bring the end toward you through the loose loop which had formed.	The bight is now your "Working end". (2) Bring the end of the bight around from left to right in front of the standing part, then begin to pass it from right to left behind the standing part (ie against the canvass). (3) As you do so, bring the end of the bight toward you through the loose loop which had formed. (Just like the "single" version)
(4) Take up the slack. (You have now tied a half-hitch. You are about to tie a second one.)	(5) Holding the end a little lower than before, repeat (2) & (3), ie. begin to pass the end from right to left behind the standing part, as in (2), and as you do so, bring the end through the loop you have just created (as in 3).	(4) Take up the slack. (You have now used a bight to tie a half-hitch. You are about to tie a second one.) (5) Holding the bight a little lower than before, repeat (2) & (3), ie. begin to pass it from right to left behind the standing part, as in (2), and once again, as you do so, bring it through the loop you had just created (as in 3).
(6) Pull tight. (By tying the second half-hitch you have effectively tied a clove hitch.) Re-check the standing part (under the hull) is not slack. Tuck any excess line under the canvass and into the boat. Done! When you are confident with this, try the version in the right-hand column.		(6) Pull tight. Re-check the standing part (under the hull) is not slack. Tuck any excess line under the canvass and into the boat. Keep practising!
For an alternative explanation, see The Clove Hitch - It is effectively the same knot, but it the above case it is tied on the standing part of the rope instead of around a post or ring.		In a situation where the eyelet, or other orifice is larger, you could save effort by creating the bight at the outset. Pass the bight through the orifice and complete the two half hitches with the remainder of this bight as above This is not practicable or advisable with our cover, due to the relative sizes of eyelet and line.
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